Falling off and letting go: Tips and thoughts to improve your head-game

Falling off and letting go: Tips and thoughts to improve your head-game

  About This Article A fear of falling on the lead is what stops so many people from being able to climb naturally, fluidly and to their fullest potential when they are above their last piece of protection. There is a wealth of existing information out there and I will make the assumption that a great many people who are reading this article have already worked their way through a few useful articles or swapped tips with friends, and they have most likely tried at least a little falling practice and know that they should do more.  In it's most simple format, falling practice involves taking as many safe falls in as many different contexts until we become familiar enough with falling so that it no longer impacts our climbing by creating additional stress, robbing us of our concentration and inhibiting our performance. This can take thousands of falls, not tens, or hundreds. In this article I want to cover some of the untouched and unspoken...
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Overcoming a traumatic climbing memory – a case study

Overcoming a traumatic climbing memory – a case study

There is no doubt that to climb effectively we have to be able to keep in charge of our psychological state. Before we get onto our chosen route we have to put away the emotional baggage that holds us down. We can normally achieve this ourselves through approaches such as visualisation and routines that help us to clear our mind or focus it towards our goals. Sometimes however, our memories can return to haunt us. A Case Study of John  Note: John gave me written permission to create this case study and has read it and confirmed its use for publication. 'John' is not his real name When I first met John I had worked with him to provide some climbing technique coaching. He was looking to push into the 7a grade, and so we worked on techniques and tactics for body positions and how to rest efficiently. John was fit and strong and a dedicated climber who had the physicality and the tenacity...
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